ASAI. Fall Winter 2023-2024 during London Fashion Week.
“Can you take my breath away?”
In 1973 the Paris Peace Accords were signed under the ornate chandeliers in Paris. War is over but everywhere is a warzone. You go, Dahn Võ and hoist the chandeliers up again. It’s time to dress up-up and put on that gown. We all need decadence, right?
The coromandel lacquer screens in Coco Chanel’s apartment divide and conquer with its clouds and camellias. Fold them back and reveal. Stand behind them and conceal.
“Lacquer is my element, it is deep and all-consuming.”
It took 4,000 Anglo-French soldiers to destroy the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan). Burnt to the ground. Looting for days. Porcelain, jade, gold and silk – scattered and dispersed everywhere. Its renderings and ruins reduced to a blue and white print.
When Visaya Hoffie fell from the subway train platform, she landed in a blanket of hot, hot pink. Order the Hot Wok padded. Get it whilst it’s hot. Here’s your spicy safe space.
Minimal, white, bleached. Is that chic? Or is it zen? The Yin to the Yang. Ornamentation is ratchet but “petite mains” are French and “savoir faire” (pronounced from the back of the throat) is European. Trace the Silk Road and the trading routes of the East India Company and you’ll find hands that can embroider, carve and sew.
Warm in her fake astrakhan, standing on the streets. In ballooning silks, she’s a freak between the sheets. Where’s the party at? She’s definitely on the list.
It’s time to take up space. Flip the pannier skirt. Overturn the opera coat. Blow up the sleeves and let the fringing fall, fall, fall. The corsets are fierce, but the skirt is fraying and fragile.
Wear the Numchuk on top. Or have it hanging off your arms. You can take that bag through airport security. Hold onto it for dear life.
Decadere! To fall!
What comes up must come down. Aren’t we all in freefall?
I don’t believe in destinations
“It’s been a constant push and pull between trying to find my place in the industry. At a time when the world was going through so much chaos, I was seeking calm. I needed the time to ground myself and I was fortunate to take that time off and come back and still have an immense amount of support. That time off really allowed me to refill my tank. This is something I want to commit to for the rest of my life and so the linear structure of the industry is something I want to dispel.
When all of my other pillars fell down, fashion became the pillar that pushed me forward and could really ground me, where I can put all my energy into. I want to work from calm, not chaos. I have my intentions. I want to dream bigger.”
– A Sai Ta
Dedicated to Ba and Kim
Runway looks
Text and Photo: Press ASAI.
More on: @asaitakeaway
Thanks: THE LOBBY @thelobbylondon
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad