At Palais de Tokyo, the emerging Vietnamese talent presents a masterful dialogue between tradition and contemporary luxury, establishing himself as a formidable voice in international haute couture
In an era where fashion weeks increasingly blur together in a cascade of predictable luxury, Phan Huy’s @phanhuy.official inaugural Parisian presentation emerges as a singular meditation on cultural authenticity and craftsmanship. The Fall-Winter 2025/26 collection, unveiled at the prestigious Palais de Tokyo, represents far more than a seasonal offering – it’s a profound exploration of Vietnamese vernacular translated through the exacting lens of haute couture.
The designer, whose background in architecture informs his approach to construction and form, has spent eight months developing this 36-piece narrative. His methodology reveals a designer uninterested in superficial cultural appropriation, instead diving deep into the collective memory of generations. Each garment functions as both couture object and cultural artifact, from paper fans delicately integrated into bodices to fishing net motifs that honor riverside labor communities.
Phan Huy’s technical mastery manifests most brilliantly in his signature color-shifting elastic mesh, a innovation that creates ethereal light effects perfectly aligned with couture’s current embrace of sheer fabrications and weightless textures. The technique, combined with his 3D layering and sculptural draping, transforms natural forms – tree trunks, straw stacks, drifting kites – into wearable architecture that moves with profound grace.
The collection’s chromatic language speaks in whispers rather than declarations. Chicken-fat yellow, clay brown, brick red, ash gray – these are not colors chosen for their fashion-forward appeal, but for their authentic representation of Vietnamese rural life. This restraint, particularly powerful against the 22,000m² of exposed concrete at Palais de Tokyo, creates visual tension that elevates both the garments and their architectural setting.
What distinguishes this work within the current haute couture landscape is Phan Huy’s commitment to traditional weaving techniques inspired by Vietnamese basketry and fishing tools. In an industry increasingly dominated by technological innovation, his emphasis on hand embroidery using crystals, beads, and semi-precious stones represents a return to couture’s foundational values of human craftsmanship.
The Nón lá reimagined through intricate cord-knotting and crystal accents exemplifies the collection’s sophisticated approach to cultural translation. Rather than literal interpretation, Phan Huy deconstructs traditional forms, retaining their essential spirit while creating entirely new luxury vocabularies. This methodology aligns with broader trends in contemporary haute couture, where designers are increasingly drawing from diverse cultural sources while maintaining rigorous standards of innovation and exclusivity.
As Vietnamese fashion gains international recognition – with designers like Tran Hung establishing presence at London Fashion Week and brands participating in global pop-up initiatives – Phan Huy’s Parisian debut positions him as a leading voice in this cultural renaissance. His work demonstrates that authentic luxury emerges not from superficial exotic appeal, but from genuine engagement with cultural heritage transformed through contemporary artistic vision.
The collection stands as testament to fashion’s capacity for cross-cultural dialogue when approached with both respect and innovation, establishing Phan Huy as an essential new voice in international haute couture discourse.
CREDITS
Creative Director: Phan Huy
Casting Director & Stylist: Steven Doan
Makeup Artist Team: Lan Nguyen-Grealis using MAC Cosmetics
Hair Stylist Team: Neville Hair and Beauty
Producer: César Topaloff
Show Director: Ruslan Ev
PR Assistant: Charles Dengpheng
Casting Assistant: Lorenzo Priotto
Stylist Assistant: Jordan Renou
Jewellery: Jill Reno Collection
Shoes: Anny Nord
Runway Videographer: Backstage FCA
Runway Photography: LauchMetrics
Venue: Palais de Tokyo