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FRANCK SORBIER HAUTE COUTURE
FRANCK SORBIER HAUTE COUTURE
Les Sorbier
Pièces uniques Haute Couture Hiver 2021-2022
L’ Esprit des lieux
CHAALIS
L’oeil de la Relique Sainte Zoé
© Laurent-Stéphane Montfort 189.photography / Franck Sorbier - Extraits film « L’Esprit des lieux -Chaalis »
The Servant, the Ferryman and the Relic
The title sounds like a philosophical fable, a dreamlike tale, a belief shared by believers from all walks of life. But he speaks, above all, despite his backward references, of an increasingly hot topicality on the subject of wealth and poverty. Some time ago, the magazine « L’Histoire » had the headline « The Rich and the Poor, 1000 years of inequality ». Far from me the idea of any morality or a trial of intent. I must admit that I had a lot of trouble choosing the direction of this collection. To be honest, I didn’t want to choose and each character finally found its place.` The Servant, the Ferryman and the Relic. The Servant embodies a girl of the woods, glades and ponds. A peasant woman who evolves in a bucolic universe which translates my desire for stripping back. A pauperism inspired by a series of photographs by artist Jackie Nickerson who photographed farm workers in Zimbabwe in 1996, and who emphasized the unique and beautiful clothes that the workers themselves made up. A foolproof identity, individuality and modernity. The silhouettes appropriate the traditional influences of Europe but having washed them of any coloristic folklore. Francisco de Zubarán, a great Spanish Baroque painter and his compatriot, José Ortiz Echagüe, photographer, follower of pictorialism, also accompanied me in this quest for authenticity. White, ecru, ivory, beige and greige make up the range of models. A skirted «Romanian» dress is the basis of the history of the Handmaid’s outfits. We then come to ennoble by layering capes, raincoats, vests, short jackets, shawls ...
AmauryVoslion. FranckSorbier
The materials are raw or rustic in appearance, a blend of linen and silk, silk and cotton, silk and viscose, plasticized organza, frayed jacquard, wick and thread wool, boiled wool, crochet and pleated velvet Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo style. The ferryman makes known and propagates a work, a doctrine, a knowledge. He is the intermediary between two cultures and two eras. The ferryman, so named, is also a two-sided mirror. You will discover him blond in a neoclassical white toga but also brown, in a fiery black jumper, draped in a cape floating like a standard. Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who has never left my thoughts, is once again present in Ermenonville, not far from Chaalis. He will live there for the last ten years of his life.
Here, he is at the heart of his deep convictions, those related to nature. Among other things, he built the Temple of Modern Philosophy there, overlooking Lake Ermenonville. The places have evocative names, the “writers’ trail”, the “witch stone”, the “sea of sand”, the “dreamer’s walk”. Later, Etienne Pivert de Senancour and Gérard de Nerval made this land, already steeped in spirituality, one of the cradles of French literary romanticism. The Domaine de Chaalis, in the heart of the Ermenonville forest, was the film’s natural setting.
Nélie Jacquemart-André, last owner of the Royal Abbey of Chaalis and famous art collector, said « it is one of the most admirable landscapes in France
». This former Cistercian abbey, founded by King Louis VI at the beginning of the 12th century, has undergone many changes since its foundation, but the remains of its abbey church bear witness to its past grandeur. The Abbey of Saint Guillaume was, in the Middle Ages, a powerful economic and intellectual center, close to Paris. Many personalities and kings of France regularly attended the abbey to interact with the monks, like King Saint Louis.
After experiencing a period of decline at the end of the Middle Ages, the estate rose from its ashes during the Renaissance. The frescoes of the Italian painter Primatice bear witness to this. Despite the ravages of time, the Domaine de Chaalis has remained a green setting containing many treasures. A place of inspiration which today is the property of the Institut de France.
I had, for a long time, in archives, sublime images of Bavarian relics from the magazine F.M.R.
A few months ago, in a bookstore, I saw, to my great happiness, a book called « Catacombs’ Treasures ». I find many photographs of these relics.
But what is it exactly?
AmauryVoslion. FranckSorbier
The author of the book relates that in the 1723s a complete skeleton labeled as that of Saint Albert arrived in a small church in Bavaria. This skeleton was beautifully adorned by a nun named Pontentia Hämmerl.
Gold threads, precious stones, fine pearls have been embroidered or encrusted on the bones. The relics were also clothed in precious fabrics and displayed in display cases. I saw there a dream of eternity and as I longed, too, for opulence, we created our own relic and dressed it with coats in jacquards of floral spirit and vat paper, in mineral brocade, in Greek Orthodox damask, in baroque tones. Pieces embroidered in-between with gold and copper mechanical lace, water pearls, ruched edges and pale gold guipures. These relics were the object of devotion and wonder. They also had for mission to be the bridges between the wishes the wishes of the priors and the heavens. So, fable, tale, belief or simply allegory. This season is about, above all, a simple intention, that of questioning.
Frank Sorbier
Elena Berbinau incarnant la Servante au sein de l’Abbaye Royale de Chaalis
© Laurent-Stéphane Montfort 189.photography / Franck Sorbier - Extraits film « L’Esprit des lieux -Chaalis »
The Director’s note
The world of Franck Sorbier ...
Intense, multicolored, plural, deep and much more ...
« Qualifying » would already be putting it in a cage ...
So ... Hushhhhh Close your eyes ... Put your hand in it ... Listen up ... Feel ...
Live ...
Thanks to Frank and Isabelle
Laurent-Stéphane Montfort 189.photography
La Relique Sainte Zoé
© Laurent-Stéphane Montfort 189.photography / Franck Sorbier - Extraits film « L’Esprit des lieux -Chaalis »
Descriptions
The servant
1. Still life with reference to the Flemish School of the 15th and 16th centuries. Burgundy woven basket in white wicker garnished with vegetables, country bread, pine needles and dried beech foliage.
2. «Romanian» dress with a belt in silk and ecru cotton on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
3. Bustier in lace from Société Choletaise de Fabrication, grosgrain ribbons and ecru guipure flowers on a « Romanian » dress in silk and ecru cotton on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
4. A large cotton crochet «blanket» capeline over a «Romanian» dress with a belt in silk and ecru cotton on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
5. A shepherd’s cape in boiled wool with two-tone greige and ecru patterns
6. A hooded houppelande in plasticized organza veil edged with a ruche on a « Romanian » dress belted with an ecru silk and cotton taillonne on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
7. An ecru jacket in crochet and bobbin lace in the early twentieth century, embroidered with guipure flowers on a « Romanian » dress belted with an ecru silk and cotton taillonne on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
8. A skirt with three superimposed ruffles edged with ecru ruching and a white boutis jacket trimmed with flower embroidery in white cotton.
9. A long jacket in patched silk canvas with squares and rectangles in a frayed crude silk and viscose bunch over a « Romanian » dress belted with an ecru silk and cotton taillonne on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
10. A skirt and a shawl embroidered with seashells in a greige floating thread jacquard on a « Romanian » dress with a belt in ecru silk and cotton on a petticoat with ruffles in tulle.
11. A skirt with five free flounces in ecru «paper effect» linen and silk cloque and short cardigan with geometric patterns in merino and alpaca wool, braided and fringed on a « Romanian » dress belted with an ecru silk and cotton taillonne on the petticoat ruffled tulle.
12. Cotton shawl crocheted and application of lace mosaics on a « Romanian » dress belted with a silk and ecru cotton belt on a ruffled tulle petticoat.
13. A monastic coat in pleated Fortuny velvet, with draped sleeves, embroidered with water pearl at the end of the 19th century, offered by Mr. François Lesage.
14. A bridal set made up of a lace camisole, white, ecru and gold guipures, entirely inlaid by hand on fragments of lace skirt from Lyon and Calais and a circle skirt in white silk organza, embroidered with stars and leaves of gold guipures.
The Ferryman
15. A toga draped in white cotton veil jacquard fil coupé.
16. A toga draped in white cotton veil with thread-cut jacquard and wings in a spider-like composition of embroidery threads, raffia and organza feathers.
The Relic
17. The relic is wrapped between two gold mechanical lace from Société Choletaise de Fabrication, guipures by Monsieur Beauvillain, embroidered with faceted, colored and translucent rhinestones diamond-like, cultured pearls and chains, enhanced with elements of Napoleon III bridal globes.
18. Long full-biased sheath with train, American armholes in black silk crepe.
19. Long coat, short sleeves with pleats in gold, silver and black jacquard with a «granite» effect, trimmed with fine gold guipure by Monsieur Beauvillain on a long full-biased sheath with a train, American armholes in black silk crepe.
20. « Renaissance » pleated cape in damask with flower and leaf patterns embroidered in between with copper mechanical lace from Société Choletaise de Fabrication on a long full-biased sheath with a train, American armholes in black silk crepe.
21. Long full-biased sheath with a small train, half-cup neckline in ecru silk crepe.
22. Mid-length coat, three-quarter sleeves in Greek Orthodox jacquard patterned with floral arrangements and illumination-style chalices on a long full- biased sheath with a small train, demi-cup neckline in ecru silk crepe.
23. Small coat in Baroque Greek Orthodox damask with floral motifs and illuminations, embroidered with water pearls on a long full-biased sheath with a small train, plunging neckline in ecru silk crepe.
24. Long sheath with a train, stand-up collar in black gold guipures by Monsieur Beauvillain, entirely inlaid by hand.
25. Long cardigan in jacquard in the Maison Rubelli vat style edged with a beaded ruche on a long sheath sheath with a train, stand-up collar in black gold guipures by Monsieur Beauvillain, entirely inlaid by hand.
26. Long batwing coat in pastel, brown and gold floral jacquard by Rubelli, embroidered in-between with mechanical lace from Société Choletaise de Fabrication on a long sheath with a train, stand-up collar in black gold guipures by Monsieur Beauvillain, entirely inlaid with the hand.
Minos de chez Mario Luraschi
© Laurent-Stéphane Montfort 189.photography / Franck Sorbier - Extraits film « L’Esprit des lieux -Chaalis »
Assistants tournage cadrage, lumières, photographie et logistique / Shooting assistants framing, light, photography and logistics Jules Sarah & Grégoire Vallet. Montage et étalonnage / Making and calibration Laurent-Stéphane Montfort / 189.photography. Lieux de tournage / shooting sets
Abbaye Royale de Chaalis Domaine de Chaalis
Forêt d’Ermenonville
Ferme Chaalis de la Société Cavalcade
Coordination et Image / Coordination and Branding Bruno Le Page
Stagiaire assistante habillage / dressing assistant trainee Lucie Menzaroba
La Maison Franck Sorbier remercie / Maison Franck Sorbier thanks
Mario Luraschi & Clémence Faivre-Luraschi
et tout particulièrement / and particularly Yann Vaille accompagné de / accompanied by Martial Bergier, Nathanaël Foucault & Guillaume Castillon et / and Gaëlle Brigo de la Société Cavalcade / of Société Cavalcad e pour sa patience et son éternelle amitié / for her patience and timeless friendship
Frank et Isabelle Sorbier remercient tout particulièrement / Frank and Isabelle Sorbier especially thank
Alexis de Kermel , Administrateur du Domaine de Chaalis / Director of the Domaine de Chaalis et / and Virginie Potdevin
Des remerciements à l’infini / ad infinitum thanks à / to Laurent-Stéphane Montfor tà / to Bruno Le Page à / to Henri Scars Struck à / to Jules Sarah & Grégoire Valle tdeux belles personnes à l’avenir certain / two beautiful people with an obvious future à / to Elena Berbinau & Chems Haj Ayed à / to Ilian Gacogne à / to Mario Luraschi & Clémence Faivre-Luraschi à / to Yann Vaille & Gaëlle Brig oà / to Monsieur de Kermel à / to Sophie Gassmann
à / to Christian Montfort pour son amitié / for his friendship Producteurs / producers pour le Fonds de Dotation Sorbier / for the Sorbier Endowment Funds
Sophie & François Berbinau Olivia Chekroun Marie-Laure Le Guay Marie-Laure Martin Jeanne Morel Clément Pouliquen Guy Soyez à notre Ami, le dernier Samouraï disparu en Avril 2021 / to our Friend, the last Samurai gone in April, 2021 Kanae Taniwaki
Chems Haj Ayed incarnant le Passeur au sein de la Forêt d’Ermenonville
© Laurent-Stéphane Montfort 189.photography / Franck Sorbier - Extraits film « L’Esprit des lieux -Chaalis »
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« Même la nuit la plus sombre prendra fin et le soleil se lèvera.»
Victor Hugo
