Ever stood by the sea and felt totally mesmerized by the shimmer of the light across the water? That gentle, rippling sparkle? Now imagine that feeling – wrapped in silk, organza, and crystals. That’s exactly what ArdAzAei @ardazaei gave us this season with their Fall-Winter 2025/26 couture collection, “The Folded Sea.”
The ocean, pleated and stitched
Presented at the iconic former Fondation Cartier in Paris on July 10, 2025, this was the Maison’s fourth couture collection – and honestly, it was unforgettable. The designer Bahareh Ardakani dove deep (pun intended) into the underwater world to capture its mystery, fragility, and femininity.
There were 26 looks floating down the runway like living poems-each one playing with the natural curves of sea creatures and the way water bends light. Soft pastels in pink, lavender, and ivory set the tone, while undulating pleats and metallic jacquards created the illusion of early-morning sunlight on calm waves. One gown even shimmered like the surface of the sea thanks to hand-embroidery using 33,000 Swarovski® crystals-yes, really.
Sea urchins, but make it fashion
A surprising star of the show? The sea urchin. Not exactly your usual couture inspiration, but ArdAzAei turned it into a symbol of ecological elegance. Corseted silhouettes hinted at their protective shells, while intricate pleats ran in opposing directions like crossing ocean currents. There were mini capes made from plissé fans, gowns adorned with pearl-kissed macramé, and even embroidered urchins made from vintage beads and fish scales. Who knew an echinoderm could look this fabulous?
When couture meets bioluminescence
The highlight? A gown glowing with bioluminescent-like shimmer. Covered in 168 “sea flower” petals, beads, and striped velvet anemones, it looked like a living reef. Nearly 1,000 hours of craftsmanship went into its creation. Every detail seemed to sparkle with movement, catching the light like waves.
The finale dress – printed with electron-magnified images of sea urchins – was layered under custom lace that rippled with every step. It wasn’t just fashion; it was marine storytelling.
Oh, and the shoes!
We can’t ignore the shoes: a pump with a sculptural comma heel and a slingback echoing its lines. Chic, minimal, but still a nod to the ocean’s rhythm. Like a whisper of movement at your feet.
A brand with a conscience
Founded in 2018, ArdAzAei is all about crafting timeless couture with deep meaning and responsible luxury. The brand’s founder Bahareh Ardakani, a gemmologist by background, draws inspiration from what lies beneath the surface – both literally and metaphorically.
And here’s something special: three of the looks in this collection are fully GOTS-certified (Global Organic Textile Standard). That’s rare in couture, and something to celebrate.
Dinner by noma, because why not?
The show didn’t end on the runway. Guests were treated to New Nordic cuisine dreamed up by Claus Meyer, co-founder of noma, and executed by chef André S. Andersen. Talk about a full sensory experience.
So tell us, which look would you love to have in your wardrobe? Hop over to our Instagram post and let us know in the comments. ✨👗🌊
Three looks are fully GOTS-certified because beauty must be responsible
Photo: Courtesy of ArdAzAei.
Written by the Fashionview Editorial Team for 24 Fashion TV