Rolf Ekroth SS24 Spring/Summer 2024 Collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week
For Spring Summer 2024, Rolf Ekroth embarks on an introspective journey guided by the notion of ‘missing.’ Inspired by the myriad interpretations of the word, he employs meticulously draped ankle-grazing aprons, oversized silhouettes and delicately hand-painted patterns
to both connect to his cultural heritage and capture an ever-present nostalgia that echoes through generations.
The collection converges at the crossroads of Ekroth’s own longing for the 1990s of his pastel- coloured youth, his parents’ memories of the delicate 1960s, and his grandparents’ yearning for a bygone yet persistently present past. Ekroth’s vision balances lighthearted irony with heartfelt empathy, all viewed through a lens tinted with rose-coloured hues.
The evocative concept of rose-tinted glasses takes form in a meticulously repeated rose motif found in prints and details. Like a thread that weaves together generations of cultural apexes, the rose serves as both a figurative and literal bridge, linking seemingly unconnected references — from the beloved video game Zelda to the unassuming elegance of 1930s Scandinavian women who toiled in the fields.
The collection’s prints bloom with three distinct hand-painted rose patterns that borrow their visual language from traditional paintings of rose gardens. Their visible brushstrokes become an ode to a life lived away from screens. Breezy pastels borrowed from Ekroth’s memories of the 1990s, and dark woollen tartans complement the rose motifs.
Ekroth pays tribute to the hardworking countryside people of past generations through the elongated silhouettes of utilitarian aprons and workwear dresses. Notably, he reimagines his friendship bracelets as miniature alpha-woven pendants that adorn the garments, hung in respect for traditional Nordic handicrafts. In totality, the collection becomes an imagined series of nostalgic moments — not tediously realistic nor foolishly romantic either.
Though nostalgic and romantic, the collection remains fundamentally utilitarian. Ekroth’s signature oversized jacket, reminiscent of a roomy hunting jacket passed down through generations, envelopes its wearer in nostalgia. The jacket’s emotional resonance is bolstered by practical details: a warm flannel lining, spacious pockets, and durable cotton. Meanwhile, a dress woven from bronze chain — a key piece created in collaboration with iconic Finnish jewelry brand Kalevala — reveals a lace-like rose pattern when juxtaposed against a dark underdress.
In keeping with the theme of the collection and inspired by Kalevala’s 85-year cultural heritage, the collection features hoodies which echo street fashion of the 80s and 90s. The various faded colours and retro cuts are complemented with a piece of unique recycled Kalevala Preloved jewelry.
Runway looks
Photo: Press Rolf Ekroth
More on: @rolf_ekroth
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad