Published on

Zuhair Murad. FW23/24 during Paris Couture Week

Zuhair Murad Fall Winter 2023/24 Haute Couture collection during Paris Couture Week.

MIDNIGHT SCENT

Defying his natural inclination to craft collections filled with vibrant and saturated colors, Zuhair Murad ventured into uncharted territory by embracing the elegance of black. This marked a significant departure for the couturier, as he aimed to transform this limitation into a new avenue, unlocking the boundless expanse of the nocturnal realm.

The night is a realm of mystery, where secret lives and the unseen are revealed by a gentle burst of light, shimmering stars, suspended between the realms of dreams and reality, memories, sumptuous gatherings which in their elegance recall ancient sabbaths where freedom reigns supreme.

Glistening silver moths in shades of purple stand out with their intricate embroidery on the taut velvet jacket, set apart by a geometric collar just as vibrant as the enchanting night. Delicate lace graces the hem of the sleeves, blending seamlessly with the supple texture of the long, high-slit skirt cascading like a waterfall at dusk.

Both the soft black tulle short dress and the silver macrame pants borrow their decorative lines from the outline of an abandoned palace, painstakingly brought to life by the designer with breathtaking lace and intricate embroidery.

An exquisite bouquet of intricately designed asymmetric silver and black patterns evoke the allure of raven feathers, wrapping gracefully around the dresses to create the sense of delicate motion in their unseen radiance and mesmerizing caress.

The bat, the queen of the night, inspires with the distinctive arc of its wings the precise contours of a collar, its subtle shadow cast in varying dimensions upon a cascade of tulle.

The voluminous cape, distinct from the bubble taffeta fabric, imparts a captivating flair to the dresses, accentuating their charm, as the corset takes on a unique allure of its own that matches the decorative shapes of the iron geometric designs, masterfully shaping the body, and hinting at sensual beauty. Yet, it also maintains an air of mystery, guarding the secrets of the night behind the palace gate.

Roses blossom in organza clustering together in surreal and venomous bouquets, their lavishness taking on a dark allure in shades of full red, lilac,

and mauve under the moonlight. Their thorny stems transform into graceful lianas, entwining and flirting with moonbeams like delicate silver thread embroidery adorning a trouser suit with barbed stripes that evoke a masculine yet fluid aesthetic, simultaneously inviting and forbidden to the touch.

A majestic black rose stands tall at the junction between a velvet bodice and an opulent skirt adorned with a motif of roses in fil coupé jacquard.

In this dark hour, fauna and flora unleash their fantasies, alternately unsettling and familiar depending on whether the light illuminates them shrouds them in shadow.

Everything in this collection exudes an aura of medieval opulence, blending whimsical gothic elements with a distinctly modern flair. The allure of magnetic black permeates every piece, the very essence of seduction, endlessly captivating with its subdued illumination.

Runway looks

24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 001 1689955803 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 002 1689955806 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 003 1689955809 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 004 1689955812 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 005 1689955815 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 006 1689955818 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 007 1689955822 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 008 1689955825 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 009 1689955828 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 010 1689955831 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 011 1689955835 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 012 1689955838 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 013 1689955843 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 014 1689955846 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 015 1689955850 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 016 1689955853 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 017 1689955856 jpg24Fashion TV Zuhair Murad FW23 018 1689955859 jpg

Text & Photo: Press Zuhair Murad

More on: @zuhairmuradofficial

By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTVChristina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad

Latest News

Florida Men’s Fashion Week’s Fifth Season Put Miami Menswear Back on the Runway Map

Florida Men’s Fashion Week’s fifth season brought Miami runway energy across menswear, swim, streetwear, resort dressing, and art-driven silhouettes.

June Fashion Launches Are Turning Retail Into a Runway Event

June 2026 fashion launches are turning boutiques, galleries, collaborations, and travel pieces into full editorial worlds.

Summer 2026’s Designer Bag Race Is Already Here

From Balenciaga and Gucci to Staud, Fendi, The Row, and Miu Miu, summer 2026’s designer bag edit is already crowded.

Planet Fashion Returns to Miami Swim Week 2026 With Paraiso Runway Showcase and Global Resortwear Lineup

Planet Fashion is building one of Miami Swim Week 2026’s most ambitious fashion-and-culture programs....

Florida Men’s Fashion Week 2026 Returns to Miami With Menswear, Art, and Culture Across Two Days

Florida Men’s Fashion Week returns May 27–28, 2026 with an expanded Miami program spanning menswear, art, music, pop-ups, creative panels, and cultural partnerships.

Miami Swim Week Powered by Art Hearts Fashion Returns With 30+ International Designers

Miami Swim Week Powered by Art Hearts Fashion returns to South Beach with more than 30 international designers, runway shows, and a citywide fashion-week atmosphere.