Stephane Rolland FW23/24 during Paris Couture Week

Stephane Rolland Winter 2023/24 Haute Couture collection during Paris Couture Week.

It is 9:30 p.m. when Maria Callas enters the stage of the Paris Opera.

It is December 19, 1958, and for this exceptional gala, the «who’s who» of politics,

business, and the arts in Paris is present. Cameras are focused on her, and the television channels will broadcast it on Eurovision. The capital is about to experience an unforgettable night; the very night that will give birth to the Haute Couture collection 2023-2024, with the fantasy of seeing Maria ascend the grand staircase of the Palais Garnier once again.

Stephane Rolland has created 31 dresses, all inspired by the soprano’s roles, as well as the woman herself and the emotions she conveyed.

A conical dress wrapped in black gazar opens this suspended moment in time; it is followed by long, articulated vests cascading with crepe and cubic dresses. The cut is sharp, pure, noble. Boleros, capes, and frock coats are embroidered with basreliefs and acanthus leaves in white porcelain.

We are at the Palais Garnier.

The heroines parade before our eyes.

In her Wagnerian beginnings, she wears a diamond-studded helmet and a black velvet gown.

As a «Verdian», Maria becomes Violetta in crinoline dresses adorned with satin slats or a long sheath gown embellished with a ”fan” sculpture of gold and diamonds. Eleonora appears immaculate in an inverted white crepe cape embroidered with biscuit porcelain.

Tosca, wearing a long draped toga dress made of pearlescent duchess satin and embroidered with golden olive branches.

Tragic, Maria embodies Medea in a blood-red waffed crepe hooded dress covered with a burning bush made of golden leather.

Finally, the role of roles.

Norma.

She is enveloped in an immense acanthus leaf and veiled with white muslin.

In the end, of all these embodied women, only one name will remain… Callas.

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