Glenn Martens’ Margiela debut, Demna’s Balenciaga goodbye, and Chanel’s wheat-field poetry close the most emotional couture week in years
As Paris Haute Couture Week Fall/Winter 2025-2026 wraps its four intense days from July 7-10, the fashion world is reeling from a season of farewells, debuts, and breathtaking artistry that reaffirmed couture’s role as the ultimate dream factory. With temperatures soaring, designers delivered cool escapism through extravagant silhouettes, innovative materials, and emotional narratives.
Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela debut closed the week with dystopian glamour—distorted proportions, artisanal decay, and couture rebellion honoring Galliano’s legacy. Demna’s Balenciaga swan song featured oversized volumes and revived house codes in a fitting farewell before Gucci. Chanel recreated Rue Cambon salons with sepia tweed, pearl buttons, and abundance symbols; Viktor & Rolf twisted bodies into impossible architectures; Robert Wun horrified with fingerprint-bloodied brides and boxy suits.
Standouts: Iris van Herpen’s algae-infused confections glowing ethereally; Rahul Mishra’s gold sculptural deities; Elie Saab’s ’80s lamé shimmer; Zuhair Murad’s crystal cascades. Emerging voices like Imane Ayissi fused African heritage with French lace; Peet Dullaert and Yuima Nakazato pushed tech-couture frontiers.
Trends crystallized: sculptural shoulders, liquid metallics, elemental palettes (ecru, ivory, gold), trompe l’oeil beading. Sustainability shone—biodegradable embellishments, circular ateliers. Celebs amplified: Tessa Thompson, Katy Perry, Rihanna sightings.
Economic ripple: elite clients snapped one-of-a-kind pieces worth millions. This couture wasn’t relic—it’s revolution, blending heritage with urgency. As Roseberry reflected on Schiaparelli’s past, Paris proved modern couture thrives on change. Fall’s fantasies? Secured.