MOSSI AW 24-25 Fall-Winter 2024/2025 COLLECTION during Paris Fashion Week
Affirming an identity, affirming convictions. Through its fall-winter 2024/2025 collection, MOSSI perpetuates the expression of its style – which already begun last season – by declining the emblematic elements that have now made its reputation: pleats, drapes, asymmetry, layering and architectural lines — always inspired of the work of South Korean artist Lee Bul — intertwine on each of the silhouettes and express, here, an emotion. Sadness, anger, hope… Three emotions that drive Mossi Traoré daily and which he conveyed through the play of pleats, the numerous drapes and the colors of the collection.
Very attached to sustainability, MOSSI was keen to use quality and environmentally friendly materials, such as milk casein fiber and wool made from recycled cushions and mattresses or even a fabric made by Indian artisans. To take the approach further, shoulder bags made using scraps of fabrics from the collection were introduced on the silhouettes of the collection.
The Gré pleated and drape, being a central part of MOSSI’s DNA are worked in a milk- casein fiber. Reimagined in a contemporary way, these sewing techniques inspired by the work of Madame Grès are applied by touch, giving relief and contrast to the silhouettes. Other pleated and draping techniques were used and punctuate the collection, such as flat pleats, waterfall draping or sun pleats, thus telling different stories.
Layering effects are omnipresent in each of the looks, through the cuts or the very materials that make up the collection. A deconstructed construction that questions the real composition of each piece. A perfecto made from a partially cut artisanal fabric reveals a heavy wool dress, itself worn over pants. An asymmetrical cold wool coat belted by a deconstructed shirt. A thick, draped and asymmetrical sweater combined with wide wool pants topped with a shoulder bag in the same material, blurring the lines between clothing and accessories. A graphic wrap skirt paired with straight pants.
The three tables of the collection
Very starting point for the creation of the fall-winter 2024/2025 collection, the three emotions of sadness, anger and hope are divided into three distinct paintings. The first is reflected by poetic and fluid silhouettes with rounded volumes, by drapes inspired by saris and the soft movement of fabrics, or even by a t-shirt with a political message, questioning the world’s current situation. Then comes anger, expressed through more architectural silhouettes and a chromatic palette ranging from black to white, including touches of gray and navy blue. It is also manifested by the flagship print of the season, placed on a long dress and made from Mossi Traoré’s mining tests. The emotion of hope, finally, is transcribed here too via a manifesto t-shirt, but also by the famous pieces incorporating the “pli Grès”. More minimalist pieces and lighter silhouettes.
Runway Looks
Photo: Press MOSSI
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By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad