Published on

Julien Fournie FW23/24 during Paris Couture Week

Julien Fournie Winter 2023/24 Haute Couture collection during Paris Couture Week.

FIRST SHIELD

Julien Fournié launches his counterattack on style and fashion design, a real call to resist fake trends with elegance and creativity. Defender of feminine values (diplomacy rather than conquest, humor rather than aggression, seduction rather than submission), the French couturier asserts more than ever that women are the only real shield to protect mankind from all the outbursts of masculinity that are endangering it with war and violence. 

The French couturier achieves this by diverting the medals, trimmings and other ornaments from military pageantry on his outfits in a festive spirit. The officers’ braid silk trimmings and shoulder pads are displaying new colors, tassels are replacing medals, the stars in the generals’ caps are invading the dresses for the the human race’s true defenders.  

First playing on extremely feminized men’s outfits (over-embroidered tuxedo, belts with pockets, silk jersey separates, upcycled military pants and shirts, a revisited First World War soldier coat), Julien Fournié plays with army codes to bring out the shimmer of ladies. Embroideries literally attack, gain ground, and invade precious fabrics.  

A battle of glitter takes place between the elaborate weaving of silk and lurex devoured by embroidery. Elsewhere, “cannetille”, a metal thread, adorns the collar of “oversize” jackets in silk dupioni, velvet or satin. 

The bride, an archangel of sweetness, appears in her immaculate white silk coat, and reveals a dress adorned with dazzling silver stars. Sure, with her crystal crown, she is coming from another galaxy to transcend all the conflicts of the universe and remind mankind that we are only made of stardust.

Runway looks

Julien Fournie FW23/24 during Paris Couture Week24Fashion TV Julien Fournie FW23 002 1688564358 jpg24Fashion TV Julien Fournie FW23 003 1688564362 jpg24Fashion TV Julien Fournie FW23 004 1688564365 jpg24Fashion TV Julien Fournie FW23 005 1688564368 jpg24Fashion TV Julien Fournie FW23 006 1688564371 jpg24Fashion TV Julien Fournie FW23 007 1688564375 jpg

Text & Photo: Press Julien Fournie

More on: @julienfournie

Thanks @lappartpr

By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTVChristina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad

Latest News

Julie Kegels Wins the 2026 LVMH Prize, Putting New Craft Back in the Spotlight

Julie Kegels winning the 2026 LVMH Prize gives fashion a useful reminder: newness still matters most when it comes with craft, clarity, and a point of view.

NYFW Spring 2027 Is Almost Here. The Calendar Already Feels Like a Reset

New York Fashion Week Spring 2027 is approaching with returns, debuts, and a calendar that looks designed to prove New York still has range.

Fashion Month Front Rows Are Becoming the New Talent Draft

The front row is no longer just a celebrity seating plan. In 2026, it is where fashion brands test the next wave of cultural influence.

Vogue’s Emerging Designers Map Shows Where Fashion Is Looking Next

The next fashion conversation is not coming from one capital. It is being built across studios, schools, cities, and regional scenes with very different ideas of success.

Luxury Resale Has Turned Every Shopper Into a Fashion Archivist

The resale market is no longer a side door into luxury. In 2026, it is reshaping taste, pricing, and the way shoppers read a wardrobe.

Margaret Qualley’s Chanel Barefoot Sandals Put Runway Risk on the Premiere Carpet

Every season has one accessory that asks whether fashion still enjoys making people argue....