CRÉPUSCULE
For the final chapter in its triptych dedicated to Paris, Études takes to the capital’s rooftops. After investigating the city’s epicenter and periphery, the brand continues its meta-urban exploration by anchoring itself above the city limits. This season, Études deploys a new space-time, a radical way of experiencing reality. In these zinc mazes, time is suspended, almost stretched out. Space is liberated, and clandestinity encourages distancing from everyday life. It’s in the fading light of the “CRÉPUSCULE” — giving its name to the Spring Summer 2024 collection — that it’s easiest to access Parisian rooftop: when the light fades, and silhouettes transform into shadows. The feeling of lightness is infused with a shot of adrenalin, the senses are over-stimulated, and the present is conjured up. At the height of Paris, we see before we are seen, we observe without being observed. The stereotypical image of Parisian rooftops is deconstructed and transformed through the prism of Études. The creative trio of Jérémie Egry, Aurélien Arbet, and José Lamali revisit the imaginary world of this heterotopian space, blending references to gabber culture, skateboarding, and soft tailoring. True to its stylistic imprint, Études plays back and forth between structure and movement, workwear patina, and streetwear comfort. This season, tailoring elegance meets a functional allure, while outdoor influences and technical details soften the sartorial style. Silhouettes are wrapped in revisited bombers, transforming into jumpsuits, jackets, and trench coats with gathered sleeves. Wide nylon multi-pocket pants come together with oversized jackets and sophisticated double-breasted coats. A technical-outdoor harness collides with an upgraded silk tracksuit. Messages punctuate the collection — “Exit”, “Insomnia”, “High”, as well as the enigmatic “La Nuit Dort le Jour” (“Night slumbers during the day”), multiplying nods to graffiti, street, and technoculture, which are joined by various sublimable images. An alien B-boy appears, while a flaming manga figure evokes Paris’ gargoyles and Gothic architecture. The “E” of Études becomes a scratched motif in the style of a motocross logo, while barbed wire encircles the dreamy “Crépuscule”. Brambles climb up the sleeves of hoodies, evoking the forbidden and the risky. As a prelude, colors swirl around pigeon blue, zinc, and charcoal grays are joined by black and navy hues reminiscent of a deep night. Silhouettes then burst into an orange glow, highlighting the colorama with a nod to warning signs. The appearance of dawn gradually tints the looks with bright white. Ivory mingles with khaki in a mottled, almost pixelated print, sprayed onto workwear jackets and pants like graffiti fog. The notion of risk is transposed into textural effects that suggest the passage of time, with worn-out jeans and screen-printed jackets graffitied in black as if bearing traces of soot. A “carte blanche” collaboration with Julian Farade completes the collection. The French artist has produced drawings exclusively for Études. Blending figuration and abstraction, Farade, best known for his chimerical bestiary, has reinterpreted the world of Parisian rooftops through bird, chimney, and butterfly motifs, evoking the ephemeral moment of twilight. His colorful, chaotic shapes adorn several pieces, including a denim jacket, baggy pants, and a shirt. Études’ Spring Summer 2024 show took place on a rooftop parking lot in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, at the foot of Montmartre, overlooking the city’s skyline. The show was set to a live performance from DJ and techno music producer The Hacker.
Runway looks
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad
