Pressiat Fall Winter 2023-2024 collection “Absolument” during Paris Fashion Week.
Film Director Luis Bunuel would never have imagined that his Parisian tale would inspire an entire new generation, in a new era some 55 years after his Chef d’oeuvre.
Vincent Pressiat’s take on the story resonates with a convergence of social, political and cultural factors as reflected in society and clothing today.
His narrative of the belle bourgeoise from the confined moneyed quarters of Paris as she stumbles into another world full of freaks and harlots and in doing so finds her alter ego, releasing her from the chattels of convention. A statement on society today, a need to rebel for freedom from judgment that seems to have been compounded by social media.
Staged at Carmen, home to composer George Bizet best known for his opera Carmen, an 18′ century Hotel Particulier in the heart of Pigalle. The district known as home to great painters and for its darker side of Mason Close where the gentry would indulge in decadence escaping the boredom of their lives of imposed etiquette & conventions.
Our heroine is the emblematic Pressiat woman, a warrior filled with the force of nature. She expresses herself sartorially, clothes becoming an integral part of the debate over the freedom to make her own choices.
Pressiat designs his clothes as both armor and soft protective envelopment, believing women are far more alluring wearing clothes that give them confidence.
The collection is composed of classic pieces of the Parisian wardrobe with the Pressiat treatment and attention to detail. Pencil skirts with corset lacing borrowing from the burlesque codes, the iconic trench in Vinyl, Bar jackets and twin set cardigans with Punk audacity.
Black, is ever present, a colour that he sees as joyous. Especially through his use of black fabrics that reflect light; velvet, tulle, silk and latex. In a clin d’oeil to the codified upper-class he uses tweed, faux lizard, poulaine and wool. His hallmark gender neutral silhouettes are a mélange of Victorian Grand Dame with his high necks and Gigot sleeves, worn with mini or sweeping floor length skirts, tailored suits and trousers.
Panther print in velvet devore is used for long gowns and halter neck tops with flowing neck tie detail. His “Belle de Pigalle” print is born from his own alter ego, artist Nikkria. An iconographic distortion of the quartier’s landmarks that made such an impression on him when he first moved to Paris and settled in its pictures que cobbled streets. The imagery The imagery is taken a step further with the creation of his whimsical homage Gazette Pigalle, a dystopic point of view half way between the glory of Pigalle’s heyday and this new era.
Couture pieces allow experimentation of ideas and creativity. Anecdotally Pressiat always wondered why he heard seagulls in Pigalle, and after some research learned that they are forced to fly inland from the north shores of France in the search of food due to the oceans being depleted of fish & pollution. Using dead stock feathers, he designed a Couture stole of upcycled vinyl filled with black and white feathers. From afar it appears to be a Cruella Devil print, up close the feathers are reference to the pollution by petrol in our oceans, and the fatality for birds.
Accessorized with elegance using headscarves, symbol of glamour power and independence, cagoules and retro style motoring helmets with silk lavalier worn under the chin or to the back. Extravagant handcrafted headpieces of vinyl and tulle symbolizing the clash of the elites’ debutantes and demi Mondaine of the night.
Runway looks
Text and Photo: Press Pressiat
More on: @pressiat_
Thanks: TL Paris @tl.paris
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad