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Julien Fournie FW25 during Paris Haute Couture Week
Julien Fournie COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 24/25
Julien Fournié pays tribute to Marie-Antoinette, the last queen of France, at the Paris-based Musée Grévin.
She is the undisputed initiator of all Haute Couture. “Whatever one thinks about her role in History,” says Julien Fournié, “Marie-Antoinette was a model of style for all the courts of Europe. She has started the movement at the very origin of fashion: preferring what is new to what has always been considered beautiful.”
Contacted by the Grévin Museum management to create an outfit for the statue of Marie-Antoinette “in her full majesty,” Julien Fournié wanted to restore the splendor of her life in Versailles and to make a statement about her as a fashion icon, a status which the last queen of France has acquired for more than two centuries as the first genuine influencer.
To accompany this event, the French couturier also presents six looks inspired by the codes of the legend of Marie-Antoinette, declined in today's Haute Couture pieces showcasing the work of the best artisans. It includes, of course, corsets and ball gowns with huge volumes, but also looks flirting with masculine suits on feminine silhouettes.
The first look presents, under a long trench coat in plum washed silk, embroidered with old silver plant motifs, an ensemble entirely made of saddle-style leather, in various dear to Marie-Antoinette pastel shades. This training outfit also includes fleur-de-lis inlays on the pants, and flat bow ornaments on the bustier. A leather crown with medallions and royal gaiters complete this outfit. Accessories also hold a notable place in the collection: "Ex Voto" earrings and brooches, the brand’s monogrammed tote in a lenticular” canvas and the new “Big Bang” handbag in 18th century’s tender colors.
A pant 3piece suit, cut in a Prince of Wales wool in bright colors, comes enhanced with lilacs embroideries. It is paired with a lavalliere tie silk blouse and a bicorn hat, decorated with a feather arrow and brooch in the style of “Incroyables”.
A “boyish” azure jacket, embroidered with silver, over a short silk and lurex nightie, reveals the the legs’ full length barely covered with “nude” sheer leggings embroidered with royal jewels.
A wide embroidered ball gown swirls and reveals, under a matching “Merveilleuse” hat, a mix of peony, soft pink and sweetbriar tones on multiple precious layers of sheer fabrics.
To mark the diversity and universality of the Marie-Antoinette style, a flowery bustier in shades of canary yellow adorned with matching roses and jewelry tops a giant petticoat of matching tulles on the ebony body of Toby Momoh, a Julien Fournié muse.
The last look in the collection reinterprets embroidered elements of the legend surrounding the last queen of France: as shepherdess, pastry lover, mother in love with her son, and playing with her coat of arms,a ll as if hand sketched like Asian anime in tattoo style. They flourish on a "gothic rockabily" look cinched by a black crystal embroidered black jacket with a crater collar and split basque.
The highlight of the show is only revealed at the finale: Queen Marie-Antoinette’s majestic court costume includes a corset decorated with embroidered bows, a skirt, an overskirt, ruffled sleeves, in bright white silk triple organza, embellished with sparkling embroidery in various shades of silver and moon gold recalling the queen’s favorite musical instruments, symbols of the French royals and the motifs of Versailles. Ribbons, feathers and pearls enliven her hair, topped with a sparkling flocked galleon with embroidered sails featuring the French monarch’s symbol. Julien Fournié also wanted to return to the Queen of France a replica of the famous necklace from the "Affair" which Marie-Antoinette never actually wore...
This new statue of Queen Marie-Antoinette now stands among the permanent collection of the wax Museum, in the Coupole at Grévin, which has brought together the characters of "Grévin Fashion" since 2014, From June 28th to September 1st, 2024, the six looks from the Julien Fournié Haute Couture "Last Queen" collection will remain on display in this same place so that a wider audience can admire up close and in complete freedom Haute Couture know-how.
"I am very happy to make this luxury accessible to a popular audience eager for fashion culture," rejoices Julien Fournié, "especially at a time when Paris is welcoming the world for the Olympic Games.”
Looks
Photo: Press Julien Fournie
More on: @julienfournie
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad