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AELIS COUTURE FW25 during Paris Haute Couture Week
AELIS COUTURE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 24/25
GOLDEN AGE
History and high technology.
Light and its absence constitute the theme of the new season of AELIS.
Reflection on the impact of human beings on the planet takes an anti-gravitational point of view through a space archaeology approach.
Inspired by the images of the Sahara desert and pyramids seen from satellite, AELIS works on the new creations by following the Light trace of the nano particles of precious metals that cover the ultra tech fabrics made in collaboration with the Hong Kong Polytechnic University and that illuminate the entire collection with golden and silver shades.
Attracted by the absence of light and the darkness of the space, for this collection Sofia received from the archives of the Paris Opéra some precious antique black velvet pieces that Christine Neumeister offered to AELIS and reworked with Sofia for their singular history, such as a dress made in the 1950s and used by a contemporary artist in a one-night-only private exhibition-performance. A series of iconic recycled black velvet dresses are reborn in a new present, on the one hand treasures of the Paris Opéra and on the other witnesses to the artistic history and savoir faire of haute couture that they embody for AELIS.
A graphic long-sleeved black velvet silhouette contemporary transposition of the pale Madame X , painted by John Sargent, is accompanied by an asymmetrical tattoo necklace created by Les Interessants in black micro crystal beads. A Renaissance-shaped jacket made of black velvet is adorned with a delicate weave of fine gold and silver chains, a unique and wonderful piece also by Les Interessants.
Antique lace and silver organza embroidery delicately placed on a black and white Chantilly tank top dress contrasts with a sleeveless tunic of eco-conscious mohair wool .
Inspired by light and luminescence, AELIS collaborates with PolyU and the Professor Kinor Jiang's team to develop a “ green “project where precious metals such as gold and silver
are laid on delicate organic silk organza.
"Sustainable Lectures," a series of meetings on sustainable fashion jointly organized in Hong Kong by the French consulate and PolyU, where AELIS had been invited to share its vision of eco-sustainable fashion, allowed Sofia to meet with PolyU and RIO, research and innovation department of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University , at the origin of the cutting age research project .
The high-tech green technology developed by PolyU involves using a magnetron sputtering coating to place ultra-thin, nano-scale metallic films on textile fibers without additives and without discharging polluted water or chemicals into the environment.
The wonderful result appears in some of the dresses made for the collection and offers Sofia the opportunity to showcase very precious, air-light fabrics whose silk fibers are delicately coated with particles of Gold and Silver.
A pyramid-shaped sculpted silver organza dress supported by a bustier creates a silhouette characterized by cones of light.
A cascade of vintage black feathers structures an gold ball gown skirt and in the same volume a dress is created by an oversized gold organza skirt and a double ruffle serving as a bodice.
An asymmetrical gold organza tunic is covered with evanescent silk embroidery recovered on an incredibly treasured silver embroidered gown from 1924 .
AELIS Models and Muses show the collection in a white Gallery immersed in a " Kubrickian " atmosphere created by Pierre Bénard where, unique works of precious contemporary design and Roman antiques are placed on the white floor under zenithal light creating a timeless dimension.
For AELIS and its commitment to an eco-conscious future, the prestigious upcycling “partenariat “with Opéra de Paris and the “green high-tech” collaboration with PolyU, are a beautiful example of a joint and multicultural effort to change the future vision of fashion and improve the human impact on the planet
Runway Looks
Photo: Press AELIS
More on: @aeliscouture
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad