Schiaparelli’s golden hearts, Chanel’s wheat tweed, and Demna’s Balenciaga farewell set the tone for a season of change
Paris Haute Couture Week Fall/Winter 2025-2026 kicked off today with a blaze of creativity and drama, marking the pinnacle of global fashion artistry amid a record-breaking heatwave in the City of Light. Running from July 7 to 10, this compact yet explosive season features 27 houses on the official Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode calendar, blending legacy giants with bold debuts and farewells that have the industry buzzing.
The day opened with Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli delivering surrealist masterpieces—hulking heart necklaces, anatomical gold corsets, and looks inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1940 New York exile. Front-row stars like Cardi B and Dua Lipa set the tone for celebrity glamour. Iris van Herpen followed with otherworldly gowns incorporating 125 million bioluminescent algae, pushing boundaries between fashion and science. Georges Hobeika dazzled with crystal-embroidered tulle, while Rahul Mishra presented sculptural gold dresses evoking ancient deities.
Key transitions dominate headlines: Chanel’s in-house studio collection channels Rue Cambon heritage with tweed, wheat motifs, and camouflage wool— a poignant last before Matthieu Blazy’s October debut. Demna’s final Balenciaga swansong revives couture drama, while Glenn Martens makes his Maison Margiela debut, replacing John Galliano’s legacy. Returning talents like Robert Wun (Hong Kong’s first on calendar) and Yuima Nakazato bring diversity, with Rami Al Ali as new guest.
Trends emerge strong: shimmering lamé for ’80s revival (Elie Saab’s liquid metallics), sculptural shoulders (Balenciaga coats), ethereal whites and elemental simplicity (Roseberry’s monochrome ode). Sustainability weaves through—biodegradable sequins, mycelium leather, zero-waste patterns. Viktor & Rolf twisted silhouettes into architectural wonders; Robert Wun shocked with “bloodied” bridal gowns covered in red fingerprints.
Street style battles the heat: sheer layers, oversized sunglasses, wet-look hair. Celebs like Rihanna (spotted post-menswear) and Katy Perry fuel paparazzi frenzy. Economic impact? Billions in private client orders, with ateliers buzzing for custom fittings.
This season isn’t just clothes—it’s transition, legacy, innovation. As Morand notes, “Unparalleled creativity and savoir-faire.” Paris reminds us why couture reigns supreme: handcrafted dreams for the elite, inspiring the world. Stay tuned for Martens’ Margiela explosion and Armani Privé elegance. Couture lives.