Uniforme. FW 2023/2024. Collection “Counting sheep” during Paris Fashion Week
This season, Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats return to the essentials, perfecting apparent simplicity and transposing into soft colors and textures the pure lines and minimal cuts that are the foundation of UNIFORME.
In their minds’ eye, the designers envisioned the UNIFORME man taking the time to stretch out in a field and find peace — and maybe a quick nap — by returning to the tried-and-true trick of counting sheep.
«Counting Sheep is our personal version of Sleeping Beauty. It’s about evacuating anxiety and finding comfort and space to dream in clothes that give the wearer a sense of protection, softness and ease while also hewing to exacting design standards and our philosophy of conscious minimalism,» the duo said. «In many ways, these are the wardrobe staples we’ve always wanted to do.»
More supple, sensual and cocooning-like than past UNIFORME collections, Counting Sheep is a chic and intuitive approach to work-and-home wear: a country mindset, translated into city wear.
The sheep’s soft texture is expressed through two primary fabrics: wool and cotton. Colors — from ecru to dark green, khaki and brown — are expressed in monochrome silhouettes, sometimes contrasted by oversized knits.
The idea of camouflage returns, this time in tonal looks such as a Fox Brothers English flannel overshirt with matching military-inspired trousers with a drawstring closure. A crossbody bag, also in flannel, is inspired by vintage military gear. A balaclava is made using the same material. And because this collection is highly personal, a utilitarian apron nods to the designers’ passion for cooking.
A fresh approach to utilitarian tailoring includes pieces in compact Japanese cotton with a micro-chevron weave recalling military fabrics. Super 130s Wool & Cashmere, a material generally reserved for made-to-measure suiting, becomes the basis for relaxed yet tailored wardrobe staples. A wool-cotton jacket makes a polished stand-in for a jean jacket.
An overcoat in technical cotton produced by British Millerain opens to reveal band details inside and features soldered seams for impermeability. Gaiter-like details illustrate the couture techniques the designers favor.
A practical hood becomes a standalone accessory, both functional and protective.
Denim is new this season, produced in a soft GOTS cotton-linen blend from Italy. Tiny impurities in the weave speak to the poetry of the fabric — an essential tenet for UNIFORME — and evoke nature’s beauty while rendering each piece unique.
Lastly, UNIFORME presents its first line of underwear, produced entirely from leftover fabrics.
Text and Photo: Press Uniforme Paris
More on: www.uniforme-paris.com @uniformeparis
By Senior Fashion Editor 24FashionTV: Christina V Henningstad @christina_henningstad